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Day 3: first trees

Day 3
Miles: 11
Cibbetts flat campground to Mt Laguna

I feel completely exposed – J and I are lying on a groundsheet in the middle of a campground, surrounded by people coming out of their tents and RVs. We’re not really that close to them, but it’s like having people in your bedroom. I turn over on my air mattress. “Is it time? ” I ask J.
“Yeah, I guess we’ll do this. Are we gonna be bandits?” he replies.
“Sure.”
We start getting ready to sneak out of the campground. We’d meant to walk the extra 1/4 mile last night, so we wouldn’t be in the fee campground, but just couldn’t make it. Our “sneaking out” is somewhat leisurely – I’m just not moving very fast.

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Day 2: keep walking

Day 2
Miles: 18.4
Hauser Creek to Cibbetts Flat Campground

I have all these things I meant to write but it’s the end of the day and I’m just a muddle of exhaustion. A muddle puddle of tired tired tired.

I wake up to easy morning light, J next to me. All around us are beautiful little campspots, but it seems like J and I managed to pick the ugliest one. The only flat spot on it was infested with the biggest ants I’ve ever seen (and I lived in the Amazon for two years) so we set up on the steep side. We’re a couple feet from where we started last night. I feel – cautiously optimistic. I rebandage my blisters and it’s time to go.

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Day 1: Tired feet

5/2/2014
Day 1
Miles: 15

I’m a flustered mess. I’ve been searching in my pile of stuff for some toothpaste for nearly an hour and everyone is waiting. I finally throw in a different tube and we all head out. “Why is your backpack dripping,” asks my sister. “Uh, it shouldn’t be,” I say as I swing it down. The culprit seems to be an untightened lid on my camelbak, but during the inspection I discover a small hole in the bottom of my pack. “G, seriously, get it together” I think. Then I realize I can’t find my sarong but it’s time to go. 
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Day 0: the beach

Day: 0
Miles: 0

Speeding through night towards San Diego, J said, “So don’t hate me, but would you entertain the idea of not starting hiking tomorrow, and taking a beach day instead?”

I instantly hated the idea. Another day of STILL not starting? Then my exhaustion punched me in the face and told me to come to my senses.

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Goodbye Arizona, for now

I feel the light from the uncurtained windows crawling across my closed eyelids before my alarm goes off. The empty walls of my tiny house are gold with the morning when I finally roll over to get up. I turn on some music and roll over to J, next to me on the naked mattress on the floor, surrounded by the drips and dregs of moving debris, laying where we had both collapsed of exhaustion the night before. “Into the caverns of tomorrow, with just our flashlights and our love,” I sing along.
   “And our backpacks,” adds J.
   “And our backpacks,” I agree. We lay there for a moment – still for a moment – and then the day is upon us. We are NOT ready to go yet.

I mop, J scrubs. I load up, J straps down. We make our pilgrimages to the storage unit. Moving seems to be an endless series of walking back and forth to nowhere exciting. I’ve put miles on today just crossing the living room.

I say this to J while I’m wiping down the kitchen cabinets. “This summer’s going to be hard,” he replies.
   “I wish you wouldn’t always talk about this summer like it’s going to be hard,” I say back. “I feel like you keep talking about how it’s going to be hard, and how you’re worried about your knees, and how you keep joking about not making it. They’re self-fulfilling prophecies.”
  “That’s not what I’m saying,” he corrects. “It is going to be hard. That’s not a prophecy, that’s a fact, and I think it’s important to acknowledge it.”
   “It’s going to be hard whether we talk about it or not,” I retort. “But that’s not what I want our story to be. It’s also going to be beautiful, and we’ll get to sleep outside every day, and see the stars every day, and hear the birds every morning.”
  “Just five minutes ago you were moaning about how we haven’t done any training!” J exclaims back at me.
  “Exactly!” I say. “I need help with the positive stuff, not with thinking about how hard it’s going to be!”
  J just sort of shakes his head at me and we make one last pilgrimage to the storage unit. It’s stacked to the ceiling and full to the front. We have too much stuff.

We’re driving home and listening to the radio when an interview with an author comes on. She’s talking about how the story you tell yourself, of your life, becomes your true story, instead of your life itself. “This is what I mean,” I tell J.
   “About the story becoming the thing itself?” he asks.
  “Yeah. It’s been on my mind, especially with this blog thing. So many things happen during the day, right? And I pick a few of those things, and then I decide how to write about them, and then freeze it all in print. And then it’s like that becomes the real thing, that those things are what I keep from the day. The writing itself becomes the true story, the one I remember. And I want to remember the best parts, not being hot/cold/tired/itchy.”
  “That makes a lot of sense. And that’s way more interesting than the stuff you actually put on your blog. This is what you should be writing about, not snide stories about root canals.”
  “Alright alright alright,”  I tell him.

We’re finally ready to go, and it’s 4 pm with a 6 hour drive ahead of us. We’ve been riding a wave of exhaustion all day, from packing and moving and cleaning, from asking too many favors from too many friends, from endless, unimportant, and brutally mudane decisions, but it’s time to go.

I realize that I’ve been unemployed for nearly a month now. It’s been the worst month of unemployment ever.  Tests and chores and relentless to-do lists. I don’t even get any days off – I’m unemployed all the time! It will be such a relief to get on the trail.

(We’re finally driving across the pitch-black mojave desert, and J asks me what I’m writing about. “I’m writing about writing about the thing you told me to write about.”
  “Hm. Recursive.” J says.)

Almost there.

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Tucson nights

Well, due to some paperwork tie-ups, it looks like we won’t be hitting the trail this weekend. Wednesday, if all goes well, we’ll finally get out of town. My packing is suddenly and mysteriously much slower.

But, things are getting done. Took my car in for a tune-up. I had a gift certificate to a spa that was about to expire, so I took myself in for a tune-up too. This evening J and I went out to the Finger Rock trailhead to try and photograph some saguaro blossoms, but they are still clenched up tight in little buds, like teeny green fists. Even so, it was an immaculately beautiful evening. Soft clouds, soft light, long green saguaro arms to the sky. I don’t know about all the time, but this time of year – this evening – right now – Tucson is the prettiest town in the world.

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Fuel for the fire (food logistics)

I think Tucson is trying to tell me to get out of town. It’s getting hotter every day and I keep running into crazies.

Yesterday J and I were driving around running errands. We pulled into a right-hand turn lane and a white Acura swerved in front of us erratically. “Honk at him!” I shouted indignantly. I hate it when people aren’t paying attention. So J did.

But then when we both turned right, the guy driving the Acura slowed down so he was next to us, looked at us, and then pulled behind us. And just that fast I went from being irritated to being afraid we were going to get shot. Everybody and their mother has a concealed carry permit in this state.

“What now??” panicked J.
“Get the heck onto Dodge!” I exclaimed back. J pulled into the left-hand turn lane for Dodge Street, which was where we were going anyhow. Dude in the Acura pulled in right behind us. “Now what?” said J. There was no one in the lane next to us, so I told him to swerve back into main traffic, out of the left-hand turn lane. So did the dude. I had my phone out and was dialing 911 when the guy finally switched lanes and passed us, then turned right onto another street. J and I went a couple miles past where we were headed, then went back a different way. I’m never going to honk at anybody ever again.

Once we were rid of the white acura, it was back to errands. I sure hope that hiking the PCT isn’t as tiring (or nerve-wracking) as getting ready for it.

While we were out and about and getting chased around town, J and I finished our last big shopping run. At least, I sure hope it’s my last shopping run. For someone who’s made most of her own gear, I’ve sure spent some astonishing sums at REI lately. I’m finding myself particularly vulnerable to slick, outdoorsy marketing these days (why, I DO need a beautiful new titanium mug, how did you know?).  However, along with the last REI run we also blew a couple hundred bucks on groceries and I think we’re ready to get started. Buncha granola-type stuff (“we’re gonna be nuttier than squirrel poop”, says J) along with lots of healthy grub like meat sticks and coconut macaroons. It seems impossible that we’ll starve.

I’ve found myself totally overwhelmed by the food resupply. I don’t know what I want to eat tomorrow – how could I possibly know what I want to eat five months from now? Food selection aside, how will I know how MUCH I want to eat five months from now? For now, the plan is to mail resupply to a few locations, and then just buy what’s available at the rest. We’ll stage in sections – we’re only sending boxes for the Southern California area before we leave. It will a relief to be on the trail and to actually know things – like how many miles we can hike a day, every day, or how many larabars I really want to eat.

I still need to pack my house.

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Grub.

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More grub.

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Still sewing…

My mom left  this morning, so I sat down at the sewing machine to wrap up a few loose ends. At 7 pm I was still there, trying to figure out what took me so long. I took a long lunch, but still!

I’ve been using Ray Jardine’s book (Trail Life) and kits as the backbone of my PCT planning. I’ve made his 1-person tarp, spitfire net-tent, quilt, bat-wing, and stowbags. Then J decided he was coming along this summer, so we needed a 2-person tarp & net-tent. I talked him into sewing the 2-person tarp, but it was a bit much for his very first sewing project. The tarp came out beautifully, but I think he could go two more years without looking at it again.

I said I would sew the new net-tent and batwing, but next thing you know it’s a week-and-a-half to the day of departure and I’m missing some important pieces of gear. My mom and I sat down and popped it out in ten hours. I spend a lot of time cursing Ray Jardine these days. (Although I keep having to take it all back when I finish a kit and the product is beautiful.)

I didn’t think I had much left to do today, but I ended up sewing a new stowbag for my sleeping quilt (Ray’s pattern ended up being too big to properly fit in my pack, so I down-sized it), another stowbag of the same pattern to use as a food bag, and stuff-sacks for the new tarp and net-tent. The last thing I made were clavicle pillows, as I like to think of them.

I’m using a Gossamer Gear mariposa backpack for my thru-hike, and the shoulder straps aren’t quite working out for me so far. The straps are a bit wider than your average backpack straps, and with thinner, stiffer foam. I suppose the idea is that the wider strap spreads the load out to ease your shoulders. The problem for me is that the strap rides right across my clavicle. The fact that it rides across a three-inch wide piece of clavicle instead of a two-inch piece doesn’t really help – I could just use a little padding (am I just supposed to have fatter clavicles or does this bother anyone else?). I was planning on just using a little sheepskin on the straps where they are uncomfortable, but the discount fabric store didn’t have any sheepskin. It did have this really ugly, blue, fake fur. Which is not the same thing as sheepskin. But if you fold it up into little pillows, it is very soft and squishy, so it just might do the trick. My clavicles sure hope so.

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(I’m getting pretty tired of this view.)

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A little training

We’re on the final countdown, with only a week(ish) left before J and I finally start our hike. To-date our training has consisted of ordering fries AND a shake when we go to In’N’Out, but since some training is better than none, we’ve started putting some miles on our trail runners this week.

Yesterday we did a quick morning trip up Finger Rock Canyon in the Catalinas. It’s an incredibly charismatic canyon, with walls  of banded black and white gneiss and huge saguaro stands. It’s also really close to town, which means that it is a great place for sightings of bros working on their tans. We were lucky though, and saw a beauty of gila monster as well. 

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We saw it on the way up and the way back down. I had cruised right past it, but it hissed at J. Hissed isn’t really the right word – it was less sibilant snake, and more teeny angry velociraptor.

Today J and I figured that we should try to put in a few more miles, so we headed up to the Soldier trail on Mt. Lemmon. As soon as we got out of the car J said, “Hey,come look at this.”

“What is it?” I asked. I wasn’t wondering long because the rattler J had nearly stepped on instantly coiled and buzzed. A rattler makes eye contact with you and keeps it, it’s head floating menacingly over it’s coiled body, its venomous spring. No pictures of this guy – my phone doesn’t have a zoom lens.

Farther up the hike I was cruising through a section of tall grass when I saw the diamonds again. I rocketed back so fast I crashed into J, who had been 5 ft behind me. A second glance told me it was a big beautiful garter snake, but I was feeling a bit jumpy.

Spring is almost over in the Catalinas – the wildflowers were scarce this year, and are almost all gone already. But the cacti are just beginning to bloom. I don’t think there is any flower in the world as beautiful as a cactus bloom – the huge, lucious cups in impossible colors, sprouting out of the most inhospitable plants. Ihave whole file folders on my computer full of cactus blossom photos, but I keep photographing them; I can’t help myself.

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We were also lucky enough for a datura bloom:

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J was saying that he had read that in Haiti, daturas are known as zombie cucumbers. Apparently, after a zombie is taken out of their drug-induced coma, they’re fed datura flowers. Hallucinogenic plants can’t be good for your state of mind after all that – no wonder the people believe they are really zombies. The mind is vulnerable enough to the power of suggestion without that kind of help.

It got me started thinking about faith healings. The healer has such a convenient out – thy faith shall make thee whole – but perhaps it is not an easy out so much as a self-fulfilling prophesy. For those who truly believe, their brain will do the rest of the work. I wish I could believe like that, because I’m just four miles into a training hike and my left knee has worrying twinge. Hopefully it will just work itself out…

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(Ok, this one’s not from the hike. But the lunar eclipse was pretty neat.)

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Check that off the bucket list

Well, I can check root canals off my bucket list now.

I hear my alarm go off this morning, so I turn it off and roll over. A bit later, it seems like it’s getting pretty light out. “I wonder what time it is,” I think. I check the clock – plenty of time to get to work – then I remember: “I’ve got to get to my dentist appointment!”

No time to stress, and I’m out the door in five minutes, on time. The endodontist office is very swank. The endodontist himself is young, clean-cut, wearing a hawaiian shirt. He introduces himself by his first name. After looking at my x-rays he tells me that chances are really good that I don’t actually need a root canal, just a regular filling. That’s exactly what my dentist said, so I’m feeling hopeful. I even keep my fingers crossed as the drilling begins.

“Whoa, this is really big,” says first-name endodontist. He follows up with, “yes, there’s the pulp. Looks like it’s a root canal.”

I want to swear, but there’s a dude with his hand in my mouth. I say “uhn” instead and uncross my fingers.

The root canal itself isn’t bad. There’s a tv on the ceiling with a looping dvd of Dale Chihuly glass pieces set in gently moving grass and on ponds. It’s surprisingly soothing, and I think about flamingos while the endodontist dude grinds the decay away. I wish for earplugs, but then think that I’m probably hearing the drill vibrations straight through my jawbone. When he finishes I realize I’ve sweated through my shirt.

Now I just need to find out how long it’s going to take to get a crown made and put in. It looks like this is going to be the limiting factor for my PCT start date, as it will take a few weeks. I really want to get started before May. I’d cross my fingers again but it hasn’t been that effective so far. Anyhow, can’t take off while I’m missing bits of my teeth, so maybe there will be time to train a bit after all.

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